Paraguay might not be the first country you think of when planning a South American adventure. In fact, before coming here, I had never met anyone who had visited this country, nor anyone from Paraguay itself. I had never even really heard anything about this country until I started researching. Paraguay was not even in my plans at all when I left Italy (my native country) a few months ago with the plan of backpacking through most Latin American countries for at least one year.
It was one of those countries I thought I would have left for the future, like Venezuela, where right now it’s too dangerous to go, or like the unknown Suriname, Guyana, and French Guyana.
What I found out was that, in fact, Paraguay doesn’t have as many attractions as its neighbouring countries, Argentina, Brazil, or Bolivia, and it doesn’t even have the sea or any mountains, but still many foreigners chose this country as their new home.
Destinations off the main path always drove my curiosity, the reason why last year (during My 9 months of backpacking in Asia) I spent more time travelling in the not-so-popular Malaysia rather than in the tourist hotspot Thailand or the popular Bali.
That curiosity for the unknown was exactly why I decided to come.
And, as I always say, spontaneous decisions are the best decisions. Always.
I have been backpacking for almost two years in total now, going back and forth from Europe, Asia, Latin America, and Africa. I’ve been traveling through Latin America for the past 4 months: first 1.5 months in Panama, then 1.5 months in Costa Rica, and 1 month in Brazil. I was undecided about where to go next — Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, or Bolivia were on my list — and because I couldn’t choose, I decided to begin instead with one of the least visited countries in Latin America: Paraguay. I wish I didn’t have a flight out of Paraguay to Bolivia already bought, I wish I could have stayed longer… so deeply I fell in love with this country and its people, but, well, I’ll come again!
I spent a total of 10 days in Paraguay, and what I discovered was a warm, welcoming, and fascinating country full of history, nature, and unique culture. A country where the quality of life is substantially high, where you never run out of activities to engage in, in the heart of South America, in a strategic spot to travel to many countries.
Asunción: First Impressions
I stayed the first three nights with a local guy, Ivan, whom I met through Couchsurfing. He hosted me at his home, where he also lives with Cata, his cute Siamese cat. He picked me up at the Silvio Pettirossi Airport late on the night of the 26th of August and drove me through the dark, quiet, and empty streets of Asunción, pointing out to me the beautiful pink and white flowers of the trees called Lapacho. I settled down in the unexpected cold (I was arriving from the warm Rio de Janeiro) and went to sleep under multiple layers of blankets.
The next day, I woke up to an unforeseen tranquil atmosphere, just a few birds singing, Cata still sleeping on the couch, the sun bringing some warmth to the lazy city, and a whole new day waiting to unfold for me.
Ivan took me right away to discover Paraguayan food: he brought me for lunch at an elegant restaurant called El Legado. We went on foot since his house is in the same neighborhood, Las Mercedes. He proudly started enumerating all the delicatessens of Paraguayan food, and I, not having a clue about what to eat, gave him full freedom to order whatever he pleased for both of us. So we ate milanesa de pescado (the fish Surubí breaded like a chicken milanesa) topped with melted cheese, a Paraguayan soup of chicken and corn balls, and a delicious mix of manioc, mushrooms, and hot cheese. I felt full until the next morning. I truly enjoyed the food, though a bit too heavy, and when later on that day I told my mum (who is from Milano) about the Paraguayan version of the cotoletta alla milanese, she startled in horror while shaking her head, and then she told me she had just had prosciutto crudo San Daniele with mozzarella cheese and a salad with olives and all kind of vegetables. Next time…
Anyways, another day, Ivan brought me to Acuarela, a fancy Churrasquería restaurant where they serve asado straight to your table, a paradise for meat lovers, and where you can also help yourself in an incredible buffet with all kinds of gourmandises. For the second day in a row, we ate so much that we skipped dinner again.
Ivan not only tried (successfully) to make me gain weight, but he also introduced me to the expat and local community in Asunción by bringing me to a social gathering in a local bar. There, at Sabores del Pacifico, I met both local and foreign people: from Finland, South Korea, Perú, Italy, the USA, England, Israel, and Uruguay who moved to Paraguay. They explained to me why Paraguay is considered a fiscal paradise: low taxes, low prices, and a tranquil lifestyle that has attracted many expats in recent years.
Through Couchsurfing, I also met Gaby, a fantastic Paraguayan girl who later became my travel companion for an amazing road trip and who made my stay in her country so incredible that I didn’t want to leave. But I’ll get to that part later on.
Things to See in Asunción
The capital city has a relaxed vibe, a mix of colonial buildings and modern life. With Ivan, I visited:
Palacio de los López – the Presidential Palace, a neoclassical building from the mid-1800s.
Panteón Nacional de los Héroes – a mausoleum dedicated to Paraguay’s national heroes. In front of it, a Guaraní lady was selling her handmade crafts, while a man nearby played the saxophone, creating a beautiful atmosphere.
Costanera de Asunción – the riverside promenade along the Paraguay River, perfect for sunsets, though a bit too hot during the first hours of the afternoon when we strolled there.
Mercado 4 – the busiest market in town, full of street food, clothes, and local life. We walked there on foot from Ivan’s house and got lost in the labyrinthine small streets while my friend was eating a meat skewer (poncho) together with yuca.
Museo del Barro – a fascinating museum of indigenous art, colonial history, and modern works.
Parque de la Salud – a beautiful and huge green area where locals go for a refreshing walk. I went there twice, first with Ivan and then with Gaby.
Then, another day, I had my round 2 of visiting the city with Roca, a friend of Gaby:
Casa de la Independencia – the historic colonial house where Paraguayan independence was secretly planned in 1811. Today it’s a museum with furniture, weapons, and documents from that time. It was an interesting (and free) visit.
Catedral Metropolitana – the main Catholic cathedral of Paraguay, built in the 1800s with a simple yet majestic white façade and an ornate interior.
Barrio San Jerónimo – a colorful neighborhood with narrow alleys, painted houses, art installations, and lively street murals. It reminded me of some areas of Salvador de Bahia in Brazil or the colorful towns around Lago Atitlan in Guatemala, my favourite area of the city.
Then, Gaby invited me on a spontaneous road trip that ended up being 1,300 km in her car, and we set off together.
Day 1: Cerro Hu, Salto Cristal & Lago Yguazú
On the way, we bought hot meat and chicken empanadas from Biggies (one of the most popular supermarkets) and ate them in the car.
At Cerro Hu, we climbed to the top. It was so windy that the birds were suspended in the sky cause they couldn’t fly, but the view was beautiful.
We continued to Salto Cristal, a tall waterfall with ice-cold water, reached after walking down and up many steps, and after taking a dusty, rough road.
At night, after many hours of driving, we finally reached Lago Yguazú. We stayed at the Iguazú Resort, run by an interesting Mennonite couple from the Chaco. The Mennonites are an Anabaptist Christian community that settled in Paraguay’s Chaco region, known for farming and maintaining traditional lifestyles. The girl, Andrea, said that they recently moved out of the community cause their life there was too strict.
Day 2: The Jesuit Missions & Encarnación
After waking up with the stunning view of the lake, we set off in the direction of Encarnación. We stopped to have lunch in a local restaurant in the small town of Obligado, and then we spent the second day exploring the Jesuit missions, all UNESCO World Heritage Sites:
La Santísima Trinidad del Paraná – the largest and most complete mission.
Jesús de Tavarangue – unfinished, but impressive with its huge sandstone walls.
When we arrived in Encarnación, the “Pearl of the South”, we found the city still buzzing, as it was just after the World Rally Championship (WRC) had finished. The streets were decorated with banners, and the atmosphere was festive.
In the evening, we had sushi for dinner at Hiroshima, a Japanese restaurant, together with Gaby’s friend Jessica and her colleague Costanza.
Day 3: San Cosme, Pilar & Back to Asunción
On the third day, we walked along the Costanera (the fake beach side) and even climbed to the top of a shopping mall to see the view across the river into Argentina.
We went to the mission of San Cosme y San Damián, where we joined the guided tours included in the ticket price — one about the mission, and one about the astronomy section.
San Cosme y San Damián is smaller than the other misiones, but with a unique astronomy center attached.
The ticket to visit all three missions costs 45,000 PYG for foreigners and 20,000 PYG for locals.
We then drove to Pilar, a peaceful riverside town with colonial architecture, where we enjoyed a sweet acai bowl before returning to Asunción.
That last night, Gaby invited me to move to her house, and so I did. Then, we went to the Social Club Centenario to watch Gaby play football, and afterward we had a traditional Paraguayan dinner of meat and fried yuca there with her friends Pati and Petty, Fer and Gene, and Perrone. I had so much fun laughing at Petty’s jokes that I forgot how exhausted I was after those intense days exploring Paraguay.
Football Fever: Paraguay vs. Ecuador
On Thursday, September 4th, Paraguay played against Ecuador in the World Cup Qualifiers. We watched the game at Petty’s house. There were all the friends from the other evening, plus AleNu and AleVargas (most girls are called Alejandra, so they all have nicknames). It was a lively evening with lots of food grilled straight away: asado, capsicum stuffed with cheese, salad, wine, and alfajores for dessert.
When Paraguay officially qualified for the Mundial, the celebrations exploded across the city. We all headed downtown, where more than 50,000 people gathered to celebrate. We got stuck in a traffic jam and then managed to park the car and go on foot. We got lost and found each other multiple times. The atmosphere was electric, with flags, music, dancing, and endless cheering lasting until very late into the night. Being part of such a historic and passionate celebration was unforgettable. I will never forget the excitement and happiness of that evening. Everyone was celebrating with their friends and family, everyone singing out loud the patriotic songs Paraguay tu papa and Soy albirrojo.
A Day in San Bernardino
One of my most relaxing days was a short trip with Gaby and her friend Roca to San Bernardino, a popular weekend escape about an hour from Asunción. The town sits along Lake Ypacaraí, famous in Paraguayan culture and music.
On the way there, we stopped to buy some delicious chipa, which Gaby promises are the best in all of Paraguay.
We spent the day enjoying the peaceful lakeside atmosphere, while Gaby was working remotely, Roca and I went strolling through the small streets, and exploring the town and its beautiful views. In the afternoon, I took a long siesta, just like locals often do, while later we shared empanadas and treated ourselves to a refreshing fruit and milk ice cream. San Bernardino felt like a calm break from the previous busier days.
Tennis Padel Night
One evening, Gaby took me to the place where she plays tennis padel. Initially, I felt shy and just watched the games, but then, some Asian looking men invited me to eat asado with them. They were all Paraguayan citizens with Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Taiwanese roots. It was funny cause I felt like being in Asia again, but the fact that they were all so outgoing and funny reminded me that I was in Latin America. They even brought a bottle of red wine just for me cause I told them I don’t like beer, but that I could drink some wine. One of these men is a chef, and he prepared me a delicious ramen straight away with his hotplate. After having fed me, they invited me to play tennis padel, and I, feeling a bit drunk from the glass of wine, accepted eagerly and started bouncing the ball. Eventually, I was not so bad at all. We kept playing for a long time, and I had a lot of fun.
Normal life
On other days, I enjoyed relaxing at Gaby’s house, watching a series, catching up with some friends back home and around the world, playing cards with her mum and Roca, trying the delicacies of El café de aca with Gaby, and going out for a walk. On my last evening, Gaby took me out to have dinner in a very nice restaurant with her father, sister, brother, and her brother’s wife and daughter. They were all very kind and lovable to me. Her dad has been 7 times to Italy and he’s very knowledgeable about my country, which really pleased me. A lot of Paraguayans have Italian ancestors; in fact, Gaby herself has an Italian passport because of this.
It really was the perfect ending to an incredible experience.
Currency in Paraguay
At the time of my trip:
1 USD ≈ 7,700 PYG
1 EUR ≈ 8,450 PYG
Weather in Paraguay
I visited in late August and early September. During the day, it was hot, but evenings were cold. It’s important to bring clothes you can layer, especially if you are outside for both day and night activities.
Safety in Paraguay
I found Paraguay to be generally safe. In Asunción, like in any city, you need to take normal precautions: avoid walking in dark areas at night, keep your valuables close, and use common sense. In small towns and the countryside, I felt very safe, and people were always kind and curious about me as a foreign traveler.
A Bit of History
Paraguay’s history is marked by the War of the Triple Alliance (1864–1870), when it fought against Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay. The war was devastating, killing a huge percentage of the population, basically almost all men and boys, and reshaping the country’s destiny. Yet Paraguay survived, rebuilt, and today retains a strong identity where women are its core foundation.
Topography of Paraguay
Paraguay is landlocked, bordered by Brazil, Argentina, and Bolivia. Its geography is divided into:
Eastern region: fertile lands, rivers, rolling hills (where most of the population lives).
Western Chaco: dry, flat, and sparsely populated.
Rivers like the Paraguay and Paraná shape much of its economy and daily life.
Food in Paraguay
Paraguayan food is hearty, simple, and delicious. Some highlights I tried:
Milanesa de pescado con queso – fish schnitzel topped with cheese.
Sopa paraguaya – a cornbread with cheese and onions.
Chipa – manioc and cheese bread, sold everywhere.
Mbejú – manioc starch and cheese pancake.
Asado – grilled meat, barbecue.
Empanadas – a baked or fried turnover filled with meat, chicken, or vegetables.
Mate & Tereré – hot and cold coca infusions that are a daily tradition.
Final Thoughts
Paraguay was not a country I ever imagined visiting, but my 10 days here surprised me in every way. From the kindness of locals like Ivan, Gaby, and her friends and family, to the spontaneous road trip, to celebrating Paraguay’s qualification for the World Cup with thousands of locals, this country became a special part of my Latin American journey. It really is and stays in my heart.
If you are backpacking South America and want to see something truly different, authentic, and off-the-beaten-path, I can only recommend giving Paraguay a chance.
Thank you for reading!
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