During several months backpacking across Latin America, my journey continued from Panama to Costa Rica 🌎 Backpacking 1.5 Months in Panama: Forest Hikes, Paradise Islands & Lifelong Friendships — but not as I had planned. I was supposed to cross through Bocas del Toro on the Caribbean side, but due to roadblocks and protests in Panama, everything changed. I had to reroute and entered Costa Rica from the Pacific border, after a long and unexpected journey that reminded me how travel always finds a way to surprise you. But, as I always say, everything happens for a reason.
It was actually my second time in Costa Rica, My workaway experience in the tropical jungle of Costa Rica a country that already held a special place in my heart. During my first visit, at the beginning of my two years of full-time traveling around the world, I explored the Pacific coast, visiting Puerto Jimenez, Manuel Antonio, Quepos, San José, Alajuela, and Tamarindo. However, the most remarkable experience has been my two weeks of volunteering in the middle of the jungle at Bolita Hostel, an off-grid “naked jungle” hostel located near the entrance of Corcovado National Park. That experience was pure adventure — wild, raw, nature-immersive, adrenaline-filled, and unforgettable.
This time, after 2 years since those days, I was craving something completely different — the laid-back rhythm of the Caribbean coast, that stayed in my mind as a place I wanted to visit since then, the sound of reggae, the beautiful tropical beaches, the salsa and bachata classes, yoga sessions by the beach, nights out playing foosbal and cards with new friends, the cute sloths, colorful guacamayas, tiny hammingbirds and peaceful iguanas at every corner, and a slower way of living. I wanted to feel the other side of Costa Rica.
From Panama to San José
The border crossing from Panama took nearly an entire day. On the bus, I met Daniel, a friendly Costa Rican who became my first friend in this new chapter. He had a motorbike and, over the next few days, took me around the capital to discover local spots, stunning viewpoints, vibrant nightlife, and the nearby mountains and volcanoes.
One day, we rode up to a volcano near San José, the Irazú one, but the weather turned against us — thick fog, heavy rain, and cold wind. We were freezing to death on the ride, completely soaked in water from head to toe, and when we reached the volcano and couldn’t see anything due to heavy fog, a kind Nicaraguan man approached us with two Nicaraguan beers branded Toña, saying with a smile, “Welcome to Costa Rica.” I can’t drink beer, I really don’t like it at all (I’m definitely a fruit juice, tea, and red wine girl), but still, this gesture of kindness gave me back my smile and saved my day.
Another night, Daniel took me to a live jazz concert in the pub Amon Solar in the hectic city centre, and another time to a viewpoint overlooking San José glittering under the stars, near a place called Aserri, — simple but memorable moments that made me instantly reconnect with this city whose streets I walked on 2 years before with other friends from my past. Also, the experience of riding around on a motorbike confirmed to me that I truly enjoy darting on two wheels with the sweet breeze of the wind on my face and the slow cars fading away behind me while the landscapes change and move.
🏙️ Ten Days in San José
In San José, I met the most important person of my Costa Rican trip: Luis, a wonderful and cheerful guy from Nicaragua whom I met through Couchsurfing. He lived in a cozy apartment with his beautiful, funny red cat named Suzuki, who quickly decided that my backpack and my womb were his new favorite bed.
Luis and I became very close friends. We went twice to the cinema for the International Film Festival of San José, where we watched two interesting documentaries — one about Jamaica, and another about the Dominican Republic (funny thing since just now I’m about to travel to both these countries for the Christmas holidays). He cooked for me often, preparing delicious traditional Nicaraguan dishes (like the Vigorón, a dish of boiled yuca, pork rinds, and a cabbage salad, served on a banana leaf) and other tasty meals (chicken soups, local gallo pinto, etc) that turned dinners into long, laughter-filled nights.
He took care of me when I got sick, buying me medicines, preparing me hot tea and chocolate, and cheering me up. We went out for Chinese food one night, and Costa Rican food other times. We listened to Italian music and talked about everything Italian; moreover, we talked in Italian the whole time because he had studied my language online for a few years, so that he was more than happy to practice with a mother tongue. I think I have rarely met someone so enthusiastic and passionate about my country, my language, my culture, and my people. I was honored and filled with pride and joy: being away from home so often and for so long always makes me very nostalgic… so that his passion for my country warmed my heart.
He became like family — and a few weeks later, he even came to visit me for a weekend in Puerto Viejo, where we enjoyed the beach, biked along the coast, and relaxed in the Caribbean sun. I introduced him to my friends, we ate lots of delicious gelato prepared by an Italian lady from Torino, we went out dancing, and shared more beautiful moments. We then said goodbye and met again in a couple of days when I had to return to San José for my flight out of Costa Rica. He was so nice that he took me to the airport after having shared with me some delicious Iranian sweets and coffee in Pasteleria Persa, a nice café where he took me after he had a nice walk in the Parque de la Paz (where I strolled down most of my afternoons while he was still at work).
We are still talking every other day through interminable audio and sometimes a very long video call. We’ll meet again for sure, and hopefully I’ll have inspired him enough to go backpacking around the world. Also, he’ll come to Italy next July, so I hope I’ll be home by then and that I can show him around my beautiful country.
We still laugh till crying every time we recollect the terrible, nauseous, disgusting stink of the dead raccoon that was penetrating his apartment. “Un grasso procione morto ubriaco…” And how is it possible that when he visited me in Puerto Viejo, a fat, dead raccoon was found by the swimming pool…? Mysteries…
Back to my experience in San José, the day after I arrived, my German friend Jannes (with whom I had spent two weeks in Boquete, my last stop in Panama) also came to the city (we were supposed to travel together but on the morning of our planned departure he didn’t wake up cause apparently he drank too much the previous night so I crossed the border alone and he caught up with me the next day -of course I was upset for having had to do all the journey alone last minute…), and together with Luis, we went out for tacos in the city centre— our first shared dinner in Costa Rica. The next day, Jannes and I went walking around the city exploring parks, monuments, and tasting all kinds of food in the Mercado Central. Then our paths separated.
A few days later, my friend Andrew, originally from Ukraine but living in Switzerland, came to visit me too. We had met in April in Zurich, where he hosted me for a couple of days and showed me around the beautiful city by the lake and mountains, and where he cooked for me exquisite food. In San José, we spent an entire afternoon at the Mercado Central, tasting everything we could: casados, soups, empanadas, coffee, juices, nut cakes, and chocolate coffees… until we were both full and happy. It was lovely to meet again a good friend so unexpectedly: he came on a two-week vacation to visit a Costa Rican friend of his, and, happily for us, we were at the same time in the same place.
🌆 What to See and Do in San José
Most travelers rush through San José on their way to the beaches or volcanoes, but if you slow down, you’ll find a city full of charm, color, and cultural surprises. I spent ten days exploring it, discovering both its classic landmarks and hidden corners. I must admit it, even though I’m not a big fan of big cities, San José has a special place in my heart.
🏛️ Museums and Cultural Spots
- Museo Nacional de Costa Rica – Housed in a former military fortress, this museum tells the story of Costa Rica from its pre-Columbian roots to modern times. Don’t miss the bullet holes still visible on the walls from the 1948 Civil War and the peaceful butterfly garden at the entrance. I visited this and the other museums on my first trip to Costa Rica, two years ago, but I still remember how pleasant and interesting that visit was.
- Museo del Oro Precolombino – A fascinating underground museum displaying more than 1,600 pieces of pre-Columbian gold, ceramics, and stone artifacts. It’s right under the Plaza de la Cultura.
- Museo de Jade y Arte Precolombino – One of the largest jade collections in the world, beautifully presented in a modern glass building. The exhibits go beyond jade, exploring the daily life and beliefs of ancient Indigenous cultures.
- Museo de Arte Costarricense – Located in the former airport terminal at La Sabana Park, this museum showcases the work of national artists and features a stunning carved wooden hall that depicts Costa Rican history.
- Teatro Nacional – The architectural pride of San José, built in 1897 with marble, gold leaf, and European chandeliers. You can take a guided tour or simply enjoy a coffee at its elegant café. My friends and I had a delicious hot chocolate in the elegant building.
☕ Markets, Food, and Local Life
- Mercado Central – A chaotic, colorful maze of food stalls, coffee stands, herbal shops, and tiny “sodas” (local eateries). It’s the perfect place to taste casado, gallo pinto, or a fresh fruit smoothie. One of my favorite spots in the city, definitely the best quality/price/amusement for food.
- Mercado Borbón – A more local, less touristy market where you can see everyday life unfold — from vegetable vendors to butchers shouting prices.
- Café Cultura / Café Kracovia / Franco Café – Cozy spots to try Costa Rican coffee culture, each with its own personality.
- Barrio Amón & Barrio Otoya – Two historic neighborhoods full of restored colonial houses, small art galleries, and bohemian cafés. Ideal for a quiet afternoon walk.
🎨 Art, Design & Street Culture
- Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo (MADC) – Located in a renovated brewery complex (Fábrica Nacional de Licores), this space hosts contemporary art, photography, and design exhibitions by local and Latin American artists.
- Fábrica de Licores Cultural Center – Around the MADC, this area is home to creative workshops, events, and open-air art fairs.
- Calle 17 & Avenida Central – Great for people-watching and spotting colorful street art murals reflecting the city’s energy and activism.
- Galería Talentum / TEOR/éTica – Independent art spaces focusing on emerging artists and experimental works.
🌿 Parks and Green Spaces
- Parque Nacional – A peaceful park surrounded by government buildings and monuments, ideal for a lunch break under the trees. I love green areas, and I definitely approve of this big park.
- Parque Morazán & Parque España – Central green spaces often hosting live music, cultural events, and street performers. In Parque España, I met an Irish man who told me that almost every day, there are concerts in the park, and not to miss the cinema nearby.
- La Sabana Metropolitan Park – The “lungs of San José,” perfect for jogging, picnics, or visiting the nearby Museo de Arte Costarricense.
- Jardín Botánico Lankester (near Cartago) – A short trip away, this botanical garden has one of the largest orchid collections in Central America.
- Parque de la Paz – My everyday stroll next to Luis’s house in this nice and well-kept park, always full of families, couples, and solitary joggers.
🕍 Architecture & History
- Catedral Metropolitana – Built in the 19th century, this neoclassical church stands in the heart of the city and often hosts choir performances.
- Edificio Correos (Post Office Building) – An ornate architectural gem with a small postal museum inside.
- Plaza de la Cultura & Avenida Central – The city’s beating heart, full of life, street musicians, and local vendors selling everything from ice cream to handmade jewelry.
🌙 Evenings & Local Vibes
- Barrio Escalante – The city’s trendiest neighborhood for dining and nightlife, full of microbreweries, vegan cafés, and creative restaurants.
- El Sótano / Amón Solar / Mundoloco – Intimate venues offering live jazz, rock, or world music. I went to a jazz night with Daniel and absolutely loved the atmosphere. In the ground floor, people were dancing salsa, btw.
- Cine Magaly – The oldest art cinema in the country and one of the venues for the San José International Film Festival, where Luis and I watched documentaries about Jamaica and the Dominican Republic.
- Los Yoses & San Pedro – Lively student areas near the university, buzzing with affordable restaurants, bars, and energy.
💡 Hidden Corners
- Café de los Deseos – A colorful boho café with great food and creative decor — a perfect digital nomad stop.
- Espacio Cultural Carmen Naranjo – A cultural center inside a historic house that hosts poetry readings and indie film nights.
- Feria Verde de Aranjuez (Saturday Market) – An organic farmers’ market where locals sell homemade bread, kombucha, crafts, and organic coffee. It’s one of the most authentic and sustainable initiatives in the city.
- El Observatorio Bar – A casual rooftop spot for sunset drinks and live music.
🗻 Day Trips from San José
If you have more time, San José makes a great base for exploring nearby natural wonders:
- Poás Volcano – A powerful active volcano with a turquoise crater lake (weather permitting!).
- Irazú Volcano – The highest in Costa Rica, offering lunar-like scenery. (where I ended up soaked with rain)
- Cartago & Basílica de los Ángeles – The country’s spiritual center, full of history. Hopefully next time I’ll go there.
- La Paz Waterfall Gardens – A lush sanctuary with waterfalls and rescued wildlife. Really beautiful.
🌴 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca – The Caribbean Dream
After ten days in the capital, finally, between a continuous indecision and changes of plan (at some point I wanted to just cross to Nicaragua, then to go to Samara, then to La Fortuna… and I didn’t go to any of these places), I took a long bus to the Caribbean coast.
I settled in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca for a full month. I volunteered at El Clan Hostel, working 24 hours a week at the reception, in exchange for free accommodation and a bicycle. It was the perfect mix — meaningful work, free time, stunning nature around me, and a strong sense of community. The hostel is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever been to, huge, with a stunning swimming pool, with an immense garden and nature all over, animals of every kind living with the guests and the staff: a sloth, many colorful frogs, capibaras, iguanas that sunbathe at the swimming pool, hummingbirds, and more.
Daniela was my best reference in the hostel; she trained me for my job, and we always chatted and laughed every time we had a chance. Working at the reception was a big responsibility; I had to handle check-ins, check-outs, reservations, every guest’s demand or question, the shuttles to Bocas del Toro, the lighting of the hostel, the websites, the cleanliness of the reception, and the calls… This volunteer experience was on Backpackers, and I have Workaway, so it was my Spanish friend Elena, Backpacking through Asia: the story of Elena Martinez Salgado. who recommended it to me and gave me the contact. I couldn’t be more grateful to everyone who led me to this magical place on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.
In Puerto Viejo, I danced salsa and bachata, played fusball, swam in the ocean, ate fresh avocados, chatted with fun people from all around the world, bicycled around town, sang terribly with friends, went wild in the discos, and much more… almost every night.
The day I arrived, a Mexican artist, Martin, taught me how to make a ring from scratch, and then he gifted me our creation. It was a good sign, Puerto Viejo really had a lot to offer me…
Puerto Viejo is a place that makes you slow down. Reggae music drifts from every corner, colorful murals cover the walls, and everyone moves at the rhythm of “Pura Vida.” In summary, I spent my days biking from one beach to another, swimming in turquoise water, and chatting with travelers and locals who made every day feel like summer.
For me, it’s hard to think of living for a long time in just one place. People who know me know that I am a nomad at heart, but Puerto Viejo is definitely a place where I would go back and live for a while in there…
🌊 Things to Do in Puerto Viejo
- Playa Cocles – A lively beach great for surfing and sunsets. My favourite nearby beach where I would go every other day by bicycle with my friends from the hostel. Volleyball matches, street artists, alfajores vendors, local food, pool parties, strong waves, sloths… from the real movida to more tranquil corners, this beach really can entertain everyone. I went there frequently; it is the closest beach to Puerto Viejo.
- Punta Uva & Playa Chiquita – Tranquil, postcard-perfect beaches ideal for snorkeling. A bit further away from Puerto Viejo, I went there once with my friend Daniel from Amsterdam, riding the bike for about half an hour, totally worth it.
- Cahuita National Park – A nearby coastal park with monkeys, sloths, and coral reefs (donation-based entry). A beautiful long walk, straightforward, you always go straight. I went there in my first week in Puerto Viejo with the other volunteers, Mara from Argentina, Nicole and Vanessa from Mexico, Sam from the USA, Pati from Poland, and Lela, a friend from Romania. We had a lovely day, the weather was perfect, sunny but not too hot, we saw a lot of animals, even raccoons, we swam in the warm sea playing with the waves, and then had a delicious lunch surrounded by sloths. And the best milkshake of my life, yogurt, and fresh mango.
- Jaguar Rescue Center – A must-visit rehabilitation center for local wildlife. I didn’t go personally, but my friend Nati went, and she liked it a lot (even if they don’t have jaguars).
- Manzanillo National Park – The last stretch of protected coastline, where the jungle meets the sea. You can hike through tropical forest trails that open up to hidden beaches. I would call it MuDzanillo rather than Manzanillo… when I went there, with my friends Daniel from the Netherlands, David from Germany, and Lela from Romania, the level of mud was something almost unbearable, we slipped and fell and climbed on mud the whole day. It was fun, though. At the end of the day, our shoes were all completely brown. The path is not as straightforward as in Cahuita; it’s definitely wilder, you have to climb, go uphill and downhill, and be careful with the immense tree roots and poisonous snakes, frogs, and spiders around. It’s also free entry with a voluntary donation.
- Manzanillo Village – The quiet final stop of the coast, with turquoise water and pure tranquility. We enjoyed an amazing sunset by the tall palms.
- Nightlife – From reggae bars to beach bonfires, the nights in Puerto Viejo are vibrant and social. Our night appointment was always at Club Vibes, where parties were going on almost every night. At Hot Rocks, one night, my friends and I participated in a belly dance contest, which was a lot of fun.
When Luis came to visit for the weekend, we explored the beaches together, rode bikes along the coast, and enjoyed Caribbean food — especially rice and beans cooked in coconut milk, one of my favorites. He also cooked for me again, some of the best and richest breakfast of my life, grazie, Luis!
🍛 Costa Rican Cuisine
Costa Rican food is simple, nourishing, and delicious (even if, for my tastes, a bit heavy and without enough vegetables -as basically all gastronomies in Latin America):
- Gallo Pinto – The classic breakfast of rice and beans with platanos fritos, sausage, avocado, and cheese.
- Casado – The traditional lunch plate with rice, beans, salad, patacones and meat or fish.
- Patacones – Fried green plantains served with guacamole or beans.
- Caribbean rice and beans – Cooked in coconut milk with a spicy kick.
- Coffee – Strong, aromatic, and part of daily life (not for me cause I don’t like coffee).
💡 Travel Info & Tips
- Currency: Costa Rican Colón (₡), but US dollars are widely accepted.
- Exchange rate (2025): Around ₡500 = $1 USD, the EURO should be around ₡530.
- Safety: One of the safest countries in Central America. Be cautious with your belongings at the beach and in some areas of San José. I always felt safe everywhere, though, especially in small towns.
- Transport: Public buses are cheap and reliable. Bike rental in Puerto Viejo costs around $5–10 per day.
- Language: Spanish is the official language; in the Caribbean region, many also speak English and Creole.
- Climate: Warm and humid all year. The Caribbean coast often stays sunny even when the Pacific is rainy. I went during the rainy season, which goes from May to December. It was not raining every day like in Panama, but when it rained, it really rained.
💰 Costa Rica on a Backpacker’s Budget
Costa Rica is not the cheapest in Latin America, probably the most expensive, together with Uruguay, Argentina, and Chile, but it’s still accessible, especially when volunteering as I did. Here’s what to expect (2025 prices):
| Item | Average Price (USD) |
| Dorm bed in a hostel | $12–18 per night |
| Private room in a budget hotel | $25–40 per night |
| Meal in a local soda (restaurant) | $5–8 |
| Street food or snack | $2–4 |
| Coffee | $1.50–2 |
| Bike rental (per day) | $5–10 |
| Bus San José → Puerto Viejo | $12–15 |
| National Park entry | $0–15 |
| Volunteering (like El Clan Hostel) | Work exchange – accommodation included |
With volunteering, cooking your own meals, and traveling locally, you can comfortably live on about $20-25 per day.
🌺 Culture and People
Costa Ricans — or Ticos — are known for their warmth and optimism. Their national saying, “Pura Vida,” means pure life, but it represents much more: a mindset of peace, simplicity, and gratitude.
The country abolished its army in 1949 and invested heavily in education, healthcare, and environmental protection. The Caribbean region, with its Afro-Caribbean, Bribri Indigenous, and Latin influences, is especially rich in culture, music, and spirituality — a place where the rhythm of reggae meets the heartbeat of the jungle.
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🥰 Friends who made my stay remarkable
Marla is the very first person I met when I arrived in El Clan. When we met, she had a beautiful skirt decorated with a big shiny belt, mossy blonde hair, and a big smile. “You’re the new girl, right? Welcome to Puerto Viejo! I’m Marla,” so she gave me the most joyful welcome. She is very young, about 20 or even less, and she has stayed for 3 months in Perù before coming to CR. In the next few days, she lent me some of her cool clothes to go dancing together, but unfortunately, she was at the end of her volunteering, so I couldn’t spend much more time with her.
Mara is a special friend of mine now. She’s from Buenos Aires, Argentina, and she definitely has that famous Argentinian cute accent when they pronounce the double “l”. I remember Marla asked me if I had already met Mara, I said no, and she replied, “Don’t worry, you’ll meet her soon enough. She’s really funny, very artistic, and you can recognise her from 2 blond locks of hair in her dark hair.” She was right about everything! Mara was working in the reception, and basically, I took her place straight away. She left the hostel a couple of days later, but she didn’t leave Puerto Viejo, she went volunteering in another hostel painting for them a murales with the map of the town. She loved Puerto Viejo so much that she stayed for more than 6 months! Only recently, she moved on in her travels to Nicaragua. We shared a lot of great moments, deep conversations about love, relationships, art, traveling, food, cultures… we went to the beach by bicycle, to dance at Clan Vibes, we participated in the belly dance contest at Hot Rocks, we had delicious gelato and alfajores together, we went to a waterfall with Nati, we hitchhiked, we did the cacao tour with other friends, we laughed and kept a beautiful friendship that I hope will bring us to cross our paths again soon.
Nati arrived a few days after me, in the late evening, when I was about to close the reception at 22. She’s from Santiago de Chile, and she’s my first Chilean friend who introduced me to the incomprehensibility of the Chilean version of Spanish. The first time she texted me “weona,” I got confused and asked Mara what the meaning of that word was, thinking she must have made a spelling mistake, but Mara told me, “Ohhh, don’t worry, it’s Chilean slang, I also don’t understand any of it.” We shared the room and our complaints about some chaos going on in the volunteer room, with unknown boys sleeping in empty beds, annoying noises, dirty bathrooms, etc. She was working at the swimming pool’s bar, so I frequently visited her there, where, rarely, clients would come to order something, so, unlike me at the reception, she had quite a lot of dead hours. I soon got used to her “weona”, “al tiro”, and “cachai”, and we quickly became good friends. We talked about boys a lot, we played foosball, or ” taka taka” even more, both being incredibly competitive, we went around with the bicycle, she helped me do some clothes shopping, and the day I left, we exchanged bracelets so that each of us has something of the other one. I met her again very recently cause I’ve travelled in Chile for about a month. It always makes me smile to hear her complain about Chilean men and Chile. From what I experienced, I really loved Chile! It was amazing to meet again after 4 months! She invited me and my boyfriend, Yousef (yeah, many things happened after Costa Rica…), for dinner at her house in Santiago, where I met her lovely family: her grandpa, her auntie, and her cousin! We talked till late, and then we met again at the black lake beach of Pucón a few days later. Next time we’ll probably meet in my country, Italy, or somewhere in Europe, since she’s planning on going there for a while next year.
Rocio also comes from Santiago de Chile, and she’s been backpacking across Latin America for long enough. One day she prepared with Nati a Chilean cocktail called Terremoto, then they were selling it at the swimmingpool bar. Rocio was the social media manager of the 2 hostels, so she was always taking pictures and videos of all the activities going on. She took some nice videos of the salsa classes, where I was always the first one to arrive, ready to dance.
Patti is from Poland but has spent the majority of the past years living in Latin America, especially Mexico. She was working in the reception of the other hostel, Casa Wolaba, where I was always going for the free salsa and bachata classes, the karaoke nights, and the takataka. We shared our tiredness of dealing with clients who texted us 1000 messages full of “!!!!!” and “?????” and long voice notes. She’s now going up to Central America, continuing exploring tropical beaches and volunteering in different places.
Cata is also from Argentina, like Mara, but she’s from the deep south, Ushuaia, the end of the world. She’s the fittest, most muscular girl I’ve ever met. Not surprisingly, then, she was the one giving yoga classes every morning in La Tribu, the other hostel associated with mine. She lived in Italy for like a year, and I could talk Italian with her. She was always wearing sports clothes and was always joyful and friendly with everyone.
Nicole is from Mexico, from a city called Puebla. She had her hair dyed blond, and she was living in the same dorm. She came to Costa Rica with her friend Vanessa, also from Puebla. They were working at the bar in Casa Wolaba, so I didn’t really spend a lot of time with them. I also met another volunteer from Mexico, Fatima, who can speak some Italian, and one night sang an Italian song with my friend Luis during a karaoke night.
July was working in El Clan and also staying in my dorm. She’s from Limón, Costa Rica, and she recently divorced from her husband, so now she’s got a different boyfriend for every day of the week. When we met, she said she’s Italian, so I got confused cause she couldn’t speak Italian, then she explained to me that her father is Italian and she lived with him in Rome for some tim,e but that she didn’t have a good experience with that part of the family cause she was the “outsider” not being really Italian. She lent me a sexy green tight dress one night. She really had a lot of cool clothes and accessories!
Fernanda is another Chilean girl who came to El Clan as a guest with her mum and brother. I remember managing their reservation and bringing them to their room. She asked me where she could do some yoga, and then I found out she’s a yoga teacher. One night, she was dancing like crazy with her brother in Casa Wolaba during a party. I joined them, and their energy was contagious, so I also danced like there’s no tomorrow.
Daniel is from Amsterdam, but his father is Iranian. He was on a one-month holiday before going to the USA and then back home. His mum visited him and stayed in a dorm as well. One day, also with David and Lela, we went to Manzanillo National Park, and we laughed and cried while constantly slipping on the mud, but we had a great time exploring the wild forest and the huge number of insects in the park. At the end of the day, we were all brown from the mud, and then we had a delicious dinner and a magical sunset in Manzanillo. He often came to the reception to chat with me and tease me every time I had no guests, and so I was not “working incredibly hard” as I often announced. One day, we went by bicycle to Playa Punta Uva, we had a fresh coconut to drink, and we swam a lot in the ocean while laughing and talking about everything.
David is German and looks German, but he’s funny! Even the day we went to hike in Manzanillo, he was faultlessly elegant with his white shirt and high-quality clothes. He was also on a short holiday, so that soon enough he went back to Germany to do more German business there, but I can see that he often takes holidays to beautiful destinations.
Lela is from Romania, but she used to live in Poland. She works remotely and loves to travel in Latin America and Asia. We went together to the 2 national parks around Puerto Viejo and shared many pleasant conversations and moments.
Mona is German but has lived in Argentina for many years. She’s very sweet and kind. I met her for the first time when she came to the reception to ask me to book for her and another girl to Bocas del Toro. With her, I only speak Spanish, and it’s funny cause she has a 100% Argentinian accent. She was also backpacking through the world years ago, and then she found love in the country of Maradona and decided to put down roots there. I’m in Perù right now, it’s almost Christmas time, and just 2 days ago I met her again by chance in Lima. She just started a one-month trip with her boyfriend Pancho and their children, Elia and Reiner. We met up at the fountain show and then again by the beachside for sunset. Life is really pretty magical sometimes!
Filippo is from the German part of Switzerland, but his parents are Italian, so he speaks almost perfect Italian, to my joy, to be able to speak in my mother tongue after so long. He’s the person with the biggest amount of tattoos I’ve ever met in my life, he’s in his mid 20s, and he almost finished all the space on his body for tattoos. I asked him what he would do when he’s older and doesn’t have space for tattoos, he replied “I’ll cover the previous tattoos with new tattoos and maybe get all black. Not surprisingly, he’s a tattoo artist. He’s got a very unique style with his clothes and mustaches; he’s got a twin brother who really looks exactly like him, apart from the tattoos. We shared some special moments in Hot Rocks, by the beach at night, and in Casa Wolaba, where we played a fun game with Nati and a French guy who comes from a remote village in France and doesn’t have a smart phone nor internet. He suddenly kissed me in front of everyone during the game because it was part of some penalty…
Yarden is from Israel. I met her the day I went on the cacao farm tour with Nati and Mara. She’s very kind, full of energy, and fun.
Idan is her boyfriend, also from Israel. He’s also a lovely person to hang out with. One evening, they cooked for me and brought me dinner at my desk while I was working (cause I always worked from 16 to 22 without a break for dinner). Then she also cooked for me and Idan a delicious Israeli breakfast with eggs, tomatoes, and sausages. The 3 of us traveled together to San José by bus 2 days before my flight to Brazil and their flight to Ecuador.
❤️ Why Costa Rica Is My Favorite Country in Latin America
After traveling across so many countries, I can confidently say that Costa Rica is my favorite in Latin America so far. It’s small but incredibly diverse — jungles, volcanoes, beaches, and wildlife all packed into one peaceful, eco-friendly nation.
From my time volunteering in the wild Pacific jungles of Bolita to my Caribbean life in Puerto Viejo, from city jazz nights and tacos with Luis and Jannes to market feasts with Andrew, Costa Rica gave me something hard to put into words — a sense of belonging and harmony with the world.
Here, Pura Vida isn’t just a phrase — it’s a way of life.
✈️ Next Stop: Brazil
Originally, I planned to continue north to Nicaragua, but August is the month I always travel with my mum. It had been her dream for years to visit Brazil, so, even if Brazil was really not on my plans this time, I changed my route and took a flight from San José to Salvador de Bahia.
It was also my second time in Brazil — two years earlier, the very first stop of the beginning of my backpacking journey, I had volunteered in an NGO for two months in Fortaleza, Volontariato in una Ong in Brasile: la mia esperienza and I was actually excited to return to a country that I really love. This time, it was a special journey: a one-month trip across Brazil with my mum, discovering beaches, cities, and nature together, from the south to the north, from the east to the west. We crossed this vast country, taking five internal flights, from the tropical northeast to the bustling south, living another unforgettable chapter of this endless Latin American adventure. From Salvador de Bahia to São Luís and the Lençóis Maranhenses, to Manaus and the Amazonas, to the Pantanal in Mato Grosso, to Iguazu Falls, to Rio de Janeiro…
But that is a story for the next article. 🌎✨
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Eli ❤
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A great article indeed.
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Thank you very much! I’m glad you liked it:) Do we know each other?
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